The operating conditions of the bath are different from those faced by most buildings. Therefore, the issue of quality steam and heat insulation should be given special attention. Look at how to insulate the bath ceiling, floor, walls and what technology to prefer, to create a suitable microclimate to reduce heat loss to a minimum, saving their own efforts and resources.
The contents 1 why the need For insulating the ceiling in the bath: features of the structure 2 The Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with a cool roof, depending on the characteristics of the roof 3 How to insulate the bath ceiling: the best insulation materials 3.1 Insulating the ceiling of the bath with his hands: the advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool 3.2 Insulation of the ceiling in the bath expanded clay: the use of features 3.3 Whether to make an insulation of the ceiling with foam polystyrene 3.4 Using cellulose fibre as insulation for a bath 3.5 The Warming bath inside with a mixture of cement and sawdust 4 Is the arrangement of a vapor barrier and waterproofing layers 5 Insulation flat ceiling with their hands: step by step instructions 6 Insulation of suspended ceiling with his hands: a step by step guide 7 Insulation ceiling baths without attic with their hands: the nuances of 8. 2 option of insulating the floor in the bath with his hands: to guide the work of 8.1 Option 1. Insulation of wooden floor in the bath 8.2 Option 2. The description of technology of insulation of the concrete floor with polystyrene foam 9 A Warming bath outside and inside: features thermal insulation of walls 9.1 Features of insulation in a wooden bath: steam room with a log 9.2 Insulation of the bath with his hands inside: brick, block and frame construction 10 The Warming bath of block brick inside: video instruction
Why the need for insulating the ceiling in the bath: features of the structure
Bath is a room which is subjected to periodic heating with the aim of making health treatments. Inside the room formed a special microclimate, characterized by high temperature and humidity. Of course, this can not affect those building materials that have to undergo such pressures.
In addition, we have to reckon with the costs associated with the use of a given quantity of fuel. If the building is prone to rapid cooling to maintain proper temperature will require a large amount of fuel. And given the fact that according to the laws of physics, warmer air is lighter than cold, the insulation requires that the roof of the bath through which there is a significant heat loss.
But on the way to the barrier to hold the warm air inside the room, there is another aspect that you should pay special attention to all the owners of the baths. High humidity becomes the source of a large amount of condensation, which, if the wrong insulation of the roof, can accumulate. Often it becomes a cause destruction of the wooden elements of the structure.
Interesting fact! High humidity is a favorable environment for the growth and development of different microorganisms: fungi, mold and bacteria. Ill-conceived steam – and heat insulation can be the cause of their emergence and reproduction.
Insulating the ceiling in the bath with a cool roof, depending on the characteristics of the roof
The roof of the bath can be represented in one of two types: with attic space without it. In the first case, the layer of air by itself, creates a pretty effective barrier, which has a positive effect on the ability of the building to keep warm. But this does not mean that the presence of the attic eliminates the need for thermal insulation works.
If the sauna does not provide attic or loft, high thermal insulation is almost a prerequisite for further use of the structure as directed.
Regardless of what type of space you had to face, the first and extremely important step is providing a vapor barrier. This is perfect such available materials, such as aluminum foil, paperboard, high-density, which is pre-impregnated with varnish or wax paper.
A useful tip! If the work carried out by insulating the ceiling in the bath, where there is attic space, the ceiling boards of the roof it is recommended to smear a layer of clay approximately 2-3 cm.
How to insulate the bath ceiling: the best insulation materials
In the process of hot baths, the temperature and the humidity reaches extremely high levels. Therefore, the construction materials that are used in the process of furnishing this room, special requirements, namely, they must be resistant to such effects and not to release dangerous substances when heated.
In addition, it is not recommended that the weight of the insulation was too big. It is preferable to make a choice in favor of a lightweight material, simple and convenient in transportation and installation. And of course, we should not forget about such characteristics as fire resistance, which is important for such facilities as a bath.
Insulating the ceiling of the bath with his hands: the advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool
Mineral wool is definitely the most popular option among all. It is often used for insulation, not only baths and garages, but also for houses. By itself, this fibrous material that has excellent insulation characteristics and can be represented in one of three types:
- glass wool;
- stone wool;
- slag wool.
But if the first option is familiar to almost everyone, the other two I saw, not all. Stone wool – a material derived mainly from basalt, although sometimes made of other melt rocks. Slag wool is very similar to cinder blocks, which use blast furnace slag.
Besides the fact that mineral wool has a low thermal conductivity that makes it suitable for thermal insulation of walls and ceilings, it has one significant advantage. Unlike other materials, it can not serve as breeding grounds for micro-organisms: fungi, mold, small insects or rodents, which is very handy for suburban areas.
As for other characteristics, the mineral wool is not prone to combustion and does not react to changes in temperature: does not deform and is not compressed. Light weight and convenient packaging (usually in the form of rolls or rectangular plates) make it easy and convenient to work with the material even alone.
Of course, this material also has disadvantages, which somehow will have to be considered:
- mineral wool is able to absorb moisture;
- it is composed of phenols, which could potentially pose a risk to human health.
Both of these disadvantages can be neutralized in the process of installation, ensure the insulation quality vapor – and waterproof, completely eliminating the risk of exposure is filled with air under the ceiling. Especially warm and moist air, which is concentrated indoors.
A useful tip! Despite the fact that with all the rules of installation of mineral wool does not represent a real threat to the health, in the process of installation, you must exercise caution and use protective equipment because of its fine fibres can cause irritation of the skin and eyes.
Insulating the ceiling in the bath expanded clay: the use of features
Expanded clay is a small-sized pebbles, which are composed of clay and are porous. If you take into account all the factors, the expanded clay can be called the most suitable material for thermal insulation of the ceiling in the bath. Of course, if the building includes an attic space and there is a possibility of its use.
The advantages of such a choice with confidence include the following aspects:
- expanded clay is completely safe: it does not support combustion, clean and even in case of fire, will not release into the atmosphere of hazardous substances;
- over time, and under the influence of external factors, the expanded clay does not spoil and does not decompose;
- the material cost is quite low;
- bacteria and fungi do not think keramzit an attractive environment for life.
In addition, the expanded clay is superior to mineral wool and the ability not to absorb moisture. And although the need to equip the steam – and waterproofing layers is maintained, the risk of accumulation of moisture inside the insulation layer is significantly less. Not to mention the fact that the operational life of clay, one of the longest when compared with other materials.
Whether to make an insulation of the ceiling with foam polystyrene
In a certain period, the foam was a leader among thermal insulation materials used for insulation, not only baths, but also residential homes. But with the advent of alternative options has revealed substantial shortcomings. For example, in case of fire foam plastic burns well, while still, highlighting the toxic smoke that can harm human health.
In addition, the foam is not too resistant to external factors, collapsing under the action of high temperatures, which is inevitable in case of using it in the bath.
For these reasons, we can conclude that Styrofoam is not the most suitable material for this purpose and it is better to give preference to another more sustainable and suitable for the characteristics of the material.
The use of cellulose fibre as insulation for a bath
Another material that is popular for insulation and is often used in particular for baths and garages – ecowool. This fibrous material is made from cellulose by adding special admixtures designed to provide protection from insects, bacteria and rodents. In addition, they make the ecowool resistant to fire.
Video overview of creating a bath with his hands, the main stages of construction of buildings, requirements and advice. Common types of baths. Read more
The advantages of this material include the environmentally friendly and light weight and the ability to fill even the smallest cracks and gaps, which is very convenient when it comes to work with a not too smooth surface. No toxic substances it does not emit so that, like clay, are completely safe for human health.
But there are significant drawbacks: the efficiency of using ecowool directly related to the presence of ventilation, as well as the quality of the waterproofing layer, which is designed to remove moisture. This is due to the fact that cellulose itself is very prone to absorb condensation, which affects its insulating characteristics.
There are two ways of applying this insulation on the walls, the so-called “dry” and “wet”. The main difference and at the same time, the complexity of the second option – the need to use special equipment, the lease of which will cause fairly high rates of insulation of the ceiling in this way.
The warming bath inside with a mixture of cement and sawdust
This method is safe to call the most ancient among all described, as these materials were used for insulation before the market do there are such heat insulating materials such as foam and mineral wool.
Interesting fact! Usually to create a suitable mixture is used that is cement and sawdust. Although it is possible the option of replacing these components on the clay and straw.
First prepare a dry mixture, which includes sawdust, lime and cement in the ratio of 10/1/1, respectively. Mix all dry ingredients, add 1.5 parts water, pouring it slowly and stirring thoroughly to obtain a homogeneous solution. After that you only put the mixture on the surface and flatten it to an even layer.
Experts recommend to use to create such a mixture of sawdust, which had previously been dried for several months, and even better the whole year.
In the case of compliance with all recommendations and technologies, in the end, you can get high-quality, environmentally friendly material. Although you have to admit that in the heat-insulating characteristics, it is still inferior to mineral wool and expanded clay and even. So, perhaps, its only advantage is low cost, which, however, entails a lot of hassle.
Features the arrangement of a vapor barrier and waterproofing layers
The presence of a vapor barrier is not a whim but a real necessity. Especially when it comes to areas like bath, where the hot air is an integral part of the use of the premises for the purpose. Lifting in the form of steam, the moisture can have a devastating impact on the insulation and lead to mold and mildew on the wooden elements of the frame of the bath.
In order to avoid problems that can arise from the accumulation of moisture on the ceiling and walls, using special films and coatings, e.g. anti-condensation membrane. Choosing suitable material, it is advisable to purchase one that has a foil layer.
A useful tip! In the process of installing a vapour barrier is very important to pay attention to its integrity. You need to prevent the emergence of gaps as it can affect the technical characteristics of the coating.
To ensure waterproofing use a special film that can be purchased at hardware stores. Sometimes used the most common polyethylene of sufficient density or a cheap roofing material.
Insulation flat ceiling with their hands: step by step instructions
Grazing the ceiling – great for buildings that are used seasonally and have a small area. But in this design there is plenty of room for bulky insulation. In addition, the large weight of such a ceiling is also not able to withstand. Therefore, the choice of material should be approached more responsibly.
In order to have enough space for laying insulation, flat ceiling should be placed slightly below the height of the walls. And you can then begin a phased implementation of the work according to the following instructions:
- You first need to put vapor barrier from the attic. In this case, the side on which the foil should face down. Fit the material overlap approximately 10-15 cm, but to ensure tightness, you also need to glue the joints with tape.
- The top is placed a selected insulating material. In this case, it is best suitable mineral wool or expanded clay, as grazing the ceiling is not designed for large loads.
- On top put a layer of waterproofing material, which will fit roofing felt or plastic film. Styling have produced the overlap, and the seams are carefully sealed with tape.
- The final layer should consist of plywood sheets or planks that will become a reliable protection for the previous layers.
It is a simple method, which is relevant in case if you don’t plan to spend too much money and time. If the area of the baths is big enough or you want to use the space under the roof for storage, then this option will be not too suitable due to their fragility. In this case it is better to give preference to boarding the ceiling.
Insulation of suspended ceiling with his hands: a step by step guide
Design suspended ceiling provides for attachment to the top of the wall not the flooring and support beams, which often use a wooden Board or several boards glued together. Top and bottom beams fastened to the ceiling, which also performs the role of attic floor. But in the middle between the upper and lower layer are laid a layer of insulating material, and hydro – and steam insulators.
The installation process may vary somewhat depending on what kind of heater has been selected, however, in General technology preserved. In the case of use for this purpose mineral wool, the procedure is as follows:
- first put a layer of waterproofing material that is attached to the upper surface of beams using furniture stapler. As in all other cases, overlaps should be at least 10 cm, and the joints are additionally glued;
- on top of the waterproofing lay boards or plywood, thus providing strength to the structure and integrity;
- mineral wool of suitable thickness is placed between the beams on the basis of the following standards: 150-180 mm for regions with a temperate climate, 200-250 mm for the regions, which are characterized by strong frosts. As for waterproofing material, connecting two separate parts of the material should be lapped;
- vapor barrier film is attached to the joists from the underside. It is extremely recommended that its edges fastened to the top of the walls. Because it is a very delicate material, it is important to work with it carefully, avoiding damage and detachment;
- perpendicular to the joists, on top of the vapor barrier material are attached to wooden slats;
- the final stage – fastening of the siding with screws or nails to these rails.
This insulated the ceiling very durable and able to withstand the serious load, so the attic space can be used for decorating the attic or as storage for various supplies.
Insulation of the ceiling baths without attic with their hands: the nuances of
Technology insulation wooden or stone baths, in the case of complete lack of attic space has some differences from those that were discussed earlier. In this case, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material and then attach the insulation itself. It is mount of the beam-beam and final layer of the ceiling boards.
Special attention should be paid to the junction of the insulation and the pipe. First and foremost, it is necessary to ensure compliance with fire safety. Provided by the rules of the indentation shall not be less than 200 mm. of Course, just to leave a hole impossible, and therefore mounts a simple box, consisting of the rafters. Its main role is the division of a heater and pipes.
A useful tip! The inner part of the box, you can also fill insulating material. However, it must be fire-resistant and to resist high temperatures. For example, for this fit stone wool.
Another important task facing the owner engaged in the insulation of the ceiling baths without attic space – complete elimination of the risk of condensation. Therefore, all steam – and waterproofing materials must be of high quality and mounted in strict compliance with the rules and regulations.
2 options for floor insulation in the bath with his hands: to guide the work of
Of course, conducting insulation brick baths or built of wood, stacking the insulating material only on the ceiling will not be enough. Why you should care about the fact that the room was warm the floor. Consider how the works depending on what materials you have to deal with.
Option 1. Insulation of wooden floor in the bath
In order to do the floor in the bath warmer and reduce heat loss, use the same materials as in the case of installation of the ceiling. Often used method of insulating the floor in the bath, expanded clay, mineral wool, ecowool.
A useful tip! One of the most effective ways of keeping heat in the room – set the baths on screw piles. Insulation of the floor in this case will need is not so acute due to the additional air cushion under the structure.
The procedure of winterization begins with the dismantling of all elements that can interfere with work. Removable skirting and floorboards. After that, all the remaining wood elements are subjected to careful inspection and checking for damage. In the case of detection, the damaged elements are replaced. Be sure to carry out the treatment with antiseptics that protect from rodents, insects and fungi.
Using small sticks, built up the bottom edge of the Arab League to create a reliable support for the draft coverage. Using cheap lumber, assembled rough coating, leaving between the joists and boards gaps of about a centimeter. Board sub-floor should not be stacked too tightly, as the air humidity increases, the wood tends to expand, which can lead to deformation of the coating in the case of a too dense packing.
Be sure to require installation of vapor barrier, especially when groundwater levels are close to the surface. The vapor barrier should cover the entire surface, including the joists. If the groundwater are high, it is better to use glassine or roofing material, and for low level of groundwater – vapour barrier membrane.
Fastening material for vapor barrier should be implemented in such a way as to capture a still and bottom edge of the wall, approximately 15 cm to Strengthen the material most convenient to the joists using construction staples, proKLIMA each joint with duct tape.
The insulator is laid between the joists so that the top is kept at approximately 2 cm air cushion. This will provide natural ventilation.
A useful tip! If the thickness of the insulator is so large that the free space does not work, then on top of the material could put the crate in increments of about 40 cm
To eliminate the risk of moisture, placed on top of another moisture barrier. It is preferable to use for this purpose the membrane material. If there is a need of installation of the sheathing, the membrane should be laid under it. In conclusion, fasten the floor boards and skirting. All protruding edges of the material are cut.
Option 2. The description of technology of insulation of the concrete floor with polystyrene foam
Somewhat different is the procedure of insulating the concrete floor in the bath. This should be done after rough-in work:
- On top of the rough screed is laid a layer of waterproofing material. Unlike a wooden floor, in this case allowed the use of ordinary high strength polyethylene. Thus, the approach to the walls must be at least 5 cm Material is deposited on the surface, and the excess trimmed. If the PE was originally in the roll part you need should be laid with overlaps of 10 cm, taped the joints with duct tape.
- After this, fit the insulation material. It is best suitable for polystyrene, because it has all the necessary characteristics. To attach the leaves to the surface, you can use a special glue and screws, and in some cases make the crate.
- Fit over the reinforcing mesh and made another screed, the thickness of which must be at least 2 cm.
- When reinforcing the screed is completely dry, you can deal with the alignment of the floor. For this sale there are special self-leveling mix. It is only important that its thickness was not less than 5-8 cm above the level of insulation.
A useful tip! In the process of casting, be sure to smooth the mixture with a needle roller. This will allow to get rid of excess air bubbles and to make the coating as even as possible and smooth.
The warming bath outside and inside: features thermal insulation of walls
The first thing you should pay attention to when planning the works on heat insulation of walls baths inside or outside you want to place the insulating layer. You can use either option, however, the first is rarely used for several reasons:
- insulation inside garages, baths and modest of houses is inefficient use of the limited space that is available. It is obvious that laying all the necessary layers will reduce the space, which in some cases is not ergonomic;
- the humidity in the bath is so high that even at observance of all necessary conditions and installation of steam and thermal insulating layers, to ensure that insulator will not be exposed to moisture, it is practically impossible;
- insulation of walls in the bath from the inside with your hands allows you to keep warm indoors, but not able to protect the walls from freezing outside. This difference in temperature often adversely affects the condition of the building.
Consider insulating walls depending on the material that was used for construction of the building.
Features insulation in a wooden bath: steam room with a log
At first glance it may seem that the log buildings is not particularly required, the thermal insulation, since the wall is completely sealed, and wood copes with the function of heat preservation. But really, the problem lies in the fact that the timber is very susceptible to shrinkage and over time cracks are formed. They are the main source of cold.
The most effective way to close up the resulting gap to put insulation between the logs at the stage of construction. Then with a hammer and caulk all the rest, even the smallest cracks are hammered and treated with a sealant.
Interesting fact! To this day, admirers of environmentally friendly materials continue to be used to fill the cracks in the walls of such plants as moss or Kukushkin flax.
The insulation of the bath with his hands inside: brick, block and frame construction
Perhaps one of the most labor-intensive processes – insulation from the inside of a bath of expanded-clay concrete blocks, bricks or other materials, which is not so easy to mount, but still have to carefully choose the material, taking into account its weight and size.
For example, if we are talking about the insulation of the frame construction, which is not able to withstand the serious load, without careful prior calculations is simply not enough. As expensive but ideal for this purpose, you can consider spray foam. This method can be used for warming the bath from foam blocks inside and for buildings of virtually any material.
In some cases, used plates of extruded polystyrene. For internal insulation it is not too suitable option, as it takes a significant amount of space, but for the outer skin the best solution is not found.
A useful tip! Insulation by spraying polyurethane foam must be done by professionals and in compliance with all technological requirements and standards. Also, you have to have quality specialized equipment.
The warming bath of block brick inside
There are many different ways to insulate the floor, ceiling and walls of the baths, using different materials and technologies. Read more about one of these ways to read with detailed video instructions for insulation brick walls from the inside. In addition, this technology can be used not only for baths. According to this instruction it is also possible to carry out the insulation of the garage from the inside with your hands.